When I started my first batch, I was under the assumption that there was only one way to brew beer and have it come out perfectly. Everything needed to be done a certain way. You had to use precisely this much water, this much grain or extract, exactly this amount of hops, etc. I realized, however, after doing a lot more research that it really isn't like that at all. There is hardly a single thing that everybody agrees on when it comes to home brewing. There are so many people that have a different system they swear by, and they all work...or they wouldn't swear by them. The trick is trying a few different things and finding out what works for you. Once you have consistent tasting, quality beer, you probably don't need to change your strategies. These are some issues I had a lot of questions about. I've outlined what some of the research says and what I have found to work for me.
Steeping
Steeping grains is a lot like making tea. You put the grains in the bag, and dip them in the water once it gets to a certain temperature. If you are using extract and grains, you'll steep first, before you begin your boil. If you are using only extract, you don't need to worry about steeping.
-At what temperature do I begin steeping? There are a lot of answers to this question. Most people agree that somewhere between 140 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit is the proper temperature.
-Do I need to keep the water at this temperature for the entire steeping process? Some would say yes. You don't want the water to get too hot because you risk damaging the grains, but as long as it doesn't begin to boil, I usually don't worry about it. I try to keep the temp from going too high, but you'll frustrate yourself easily if you constantly try to change things to keep the temp perfect.
-How long do I need to steep the grains? That ultimately depends on how much you are using. If you are using about a pound or less, I have found that 30 minutes or so is fine. Much more than that and you'll want to steep for closer to an hour. Play with it. See what works. Steeping is all about getting the flavor out of the grains. How much more flavor will a little extra time actually get you? If you truly want every last drop of flavor from the grains, go for the longer time period.
Pitching the yeast
-Do I really need to rehydrate the yeast before putting into the cooled wort? Some people swear by this. If you don't rehydrate, they feel you'll kill the yeast. You might, but not all of them, unless your wort is too hot, and then you'll kill the yeast even if you do rehydrate it. The ultimate answer is no, you don't need to rehydrate it. I have never rehydrated the yeast, and my beers have turned out fine. A guy who owns a local home brew store told me that he has had more reports of contamination with rehydrating then from just dumping the dried yeast right into the wort. Think about it; you're adding an extra step. Every time you do something extra, you are adding opportunities for contamination. And since sanitization is the one thing everyone who home brews definitely agrees on, I have come to the conclusion that it is not worth the extra step.
Fermenting
-How long do I need to ferment? This is one of the most debated ideas or concepts. Literally everyone will tell you something different. Honestly, you'll need to find what works for you. I always let my wort sit for at least 7-10 days. Some say at least 14 days. Depending on the type of beer you are making, or the recipe you are using, you may need to let it ferment for longer. One thing everyone agrees on is that the longer you let it sit, the better it will turn out. Letting it age is not a bad thing.
-Do I need to use a secondary fermenter? Some say yes--always. I disagree. The purpose of secondary fermentation is to let the sediment fall out further and to make the beer clearer. The process achieved by using a secondary will still happen if you leave the wort in the primary. It may not be as effective, but it will still happen. Think about this: the more you expose the beer to air, the more risk you are taking with it becoming contaminated. Some don't think it is worth the risk. For a lot of ales, it is not necessary to secondary. Some recipes require additions that are added in the secondary process (like dry hopping). For these recipes, you probably do want to use a secondary. You'll want to secondary for at least 7 days, probably, since this is where a lot of the aging takes place. A lot of people who secondary, move the beer to the secondary fermenter after about 4-7 days, and then leave it in the secondary for the remainder of the fermentation period.
Bottling
-The ultimate thing to remember about bottling is to make sure everything is clean and sanitized. I wash mine in the dishwasher on the high-temp setting with the sani-rinse option to make sure they are ready to go. Some scrub for hours. I don't have the patience for that. I don't usually have any issues with the dishwasher. Just inspect the bottles afterward and make sure they are clean.
-Some people add priming sugar to each bottle for carbonation. Others add a carbonation tablet to each bottle. I make a priming sugar solution and add it to the bottling bucket. I then siphon the beer into the bucket. This mixes up the solution pretty well. I let it sit for a couple of minutes, and then I bottle. This just seems easier and works fine. The amount and type of sugar you use will depend on the recipe.
-Some people swear by a racking cane for bottling. This is what you have to use if you are bottling from a glass carboy or a solid plastic bucket. I have bottling bucket with a spigot on the bottom. I can just pour the beer right into the bottle. This is easier, but it is a matter of preference.
-How long do I leave it in the bottles? You need to give the priming sugar solution time to carbonate the beer. I know it's hard to look at the bottles and not open one up, but it does get better with age. I have heard some say that if it sat for a really long time in the fermenter, then it doesn't need to sit in the bottles as long. I have even seen some recipes that have really short bottling times. I usually swear by about 14 days. I would not open up one any sooner than about 10 days. However, the last beer is usually the best one, which sits for a lot longer than 14 days, so just keep that in mind.
These are just some things that I had some questions about early on. Once you come to terms with the fact there is no one way to do these things, you'll probably sleep a lot easier. It will also let you be more comfortable with making the beer, which will allow you to be more creative and make better beer. Start out slow. Make it as easy as possible to begin with. Once you get comfortable, then you can get fancy and start using more grains, secondary fermenters, etc.
I really recommend the following book for anyone who home brews, or who wants to start: How to Home Brew by John Palmer. It addresses a lot of the questions I have posted here (and much more) and guides the reader to finding a system that works for him or her individually.
Until Next Time,
RHSC
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